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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.